This section is intended to provide our customers with a better working knowledge of their vehicles, what's involved in maintaining them today, and how our services can help reduce the overall cost of vehicle ownership. We hope that you will find this section helpful, and we welcome any questions or comments, that you might have.
- The true cost of driving!
- What is a Complete Computer Engine Analysis?
- What is a tune-up
- Why you should replace your spark plug wires, distributor cap & rotor
- Why you should perform a fuel injection service
- What is a cooling system service?
- Why you should perform an air conditioning service
- Why you should service your brake fluid
- Why get an electrical system analysis?
- Why you should flush out your transmission fluid
- Why you should flush out your steering fluid
- Why is wheel alignment important?
Most people have no idea of the cost of providing transportation from point "A" to point "B". I have assembled some statistics for you to consider; remembering that the average mid-size new car now costs around $25,000 plus. Financing the average new car at 8% interest over 4 years runs $488.26 per month. The average full coverage insurance is around $90.00 per month. With average miles driven of 15,000 per year totaling 60,000 miles over 4 years and average maintenance costs of $1,200 which comes out to $25.00 per month adds up to a total expense of $603.26 per month, for the next 4 years, not counting tires or gas! Oh, by the way, that’s after putting a $1,000 down and a $1,000 sales tax! The total expense to drive from point “A” to point “B” costs $7, 239 per year and $28,956 for 4 years of transportation; and you wonder why money is tight! This will all vary up or down based on your individual transportation requirements. If you have more than one vehicle, multiply the above accordingly.
When the time comes to perform maintenance and repairs and you need to spend a $1,000 to prolong the useful life of your vehicle take this into consideration. If by doing the maintenance and repairs gets you another 24 months and/or 30,000 miles; the average cost would be around $41.66 per month. You can’t rent, lease, beg, borrow or buy a vehicle to use for $41.66 per month. Compare this to a $20, 000 new car which will cost you $14, 478 over 24 months, with an average cost around $603.26. Not to mention a $1,000 in Maryland sales tax which goes for nothing! Which will it be? A $1,000 to Maryland for nothing or a $1,000 for repairs and maintenance to get another 24 months and/or 30,000 miles; you tell me what makes sense! So, use the $14,478 you save by keeping your vehicle well maintained safer and longer in order to realize your dreams, retirement or children’s education.
To fully maximize your transportation dollar you need to get 150,000 to 200,000 miles out of your vehicle. This is possible because today’s vehicles are built better than ever before. By doing the manufacturers’ recommend maintenance you will help to insure the same level of reliability you have come to know and expect. The manufacturer creates detailed maintenance schedules outlining specific operations to be performed on various components and systems; these services are done at different mileage intervals to ensure proper operation and prevent premature wear. Unfortunately, most manufacturers only provide maintenance guidelines for the first 100,000 miles or so. Once your vehicle passes the 100,000-mile mark, it is time to have it thoroughly evaluated to determine the right maintenance course.
Lenexa Automotive has ASE Certified Master Technicians, the latest computerized diagnostic equipment and a computerized automotive information system that provides detailed data for your vehicles by year, make and model. This insures that repairs and maintenance of your vehicles are in complete compliance with the manufacturer warranty. Other information includes lists of “high-tech” specialty lubricants required for your particular vehicle; the latest service procedures, diagnostic information and factory issued Technical Service Bulletins. The bottom line is efficient, dependable, and cost effective service for you! Working together, we can add years to the life of your car or truck.
What is a Complete Computer Engine Analysis?
Why a Complete Computerized Engine Analysis is worth every penny! In 1970, the average car had only $25.00 worth of electronics. By 1981 the average car electronics had risen to over $1,000.00 per car and by 1996 to over $3,500.00 per car and still rising. Today’s vehicle’s computers operate everything from air conditioning, radios, air bags, alarm systems, anti-lock braking systems, traction control, ride control, cruise control, electronic digital and analog instrument panels, automatic transmissions and last but not least emission and engine controls.
Today too many people have tried to take advantage of the system. Instead of using proper diagnostic procedures, some people (mostly do-it-yourselfers, but also some so-called professionals) resort to trial-and-error parts swapping when they don’t know how else to fix a computer or performance problem. Computers I electronic parts are easily damaged by improper installation or testing and are very sensitive to voltage overloads, it does not take much of a voltage spike to ruin a component. Because of such risks, and the high cost of many parts, car dealers/parts suppliers refuse to allow returns on any electronic components and it is posted on there invoices and at there parts counter; leaving you the consumer with expensive parts you didn’t need. Most computers range in price from $250.00 to as high as $1,500.00 depending on what the control. The major manufacturers have reported that as high as 80% of all computers returned for repair were found to be OK! For this reason, a complete computerized engine analysis can save you money by correctly diagnosing your vehicle’s problems the first time!
You can see for this very reason it is even more important to choose a shop that has experienced ASE Certified Master Technicians, the latest computerized diagnostic equipment and a computerized information system. Trying to diagnose today’s vehicles without the proper training and diagnostic equipment can result in misdiagnosis costing you the consumer $100’s even $1,000’s of dollars of unnecessary repairs.
What is a tune-up
The term TUNE-UP was coined back when Henry Ford was working on his first prototype for the automobile. This first ignition system was very simple; one ignition coil for one spark plug, so if there were four spark plugs there would be four ignition coils. These coils needed to be adjusted to provide the same spark intensity for better idle and acceleration. As these coils worked they made a buzzing sound so when you adjusted them properly they all buzzed the same; therefore they were in tune and that’s how the term tune-up was coined. This term stuck and was associated with the replacement of spark plugs and any performance or rough idle problem that could be associated to engine operation. Once the distributor was developed the term tune-up had no meaning as to how an engine performed, but to the consumer who was use to hearing this term around a garage, automatically associated poor running quality with the need to be in tune.
Today’s automobiles do not require tune-ups. Automobile manufactures have set forth in there recommended maintenance schedules, intervals for replacing spark plugs, PCV valves, fuel filters, etc. while recommending that other items related to engine operation be checked for proper operation and/or adjustment such as ignition timing, idle speed and other emission control related devises. When and only when the maintenance has been performed should a performance problem be addressed to correct any given set of problems. If an operation or performance problem is still present after the maintenance has been performed an engine analysis would then be required. Therefore the term tune-up indicates the need for routine maintenance and should not be associated with poor performance. If your vehicle experiences any operating or performance problems between maintenance intervals, that specific problem should be addressed by performing an engine analysis to isolate that particular problem
Why you should replace your spark plug wires, distributor cap & rotor
After 60,000 miles it is highly recommended that spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor be replaced; on distributor less ignition just spark plug wires. The reason is that under hood vehicle electrical components over time are exposed to moisture, oil, grease and temperature that can rise as high as 550 to 700 degrees. As a result spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, insulation break down creating an easier or alternative path to ground. Worn spark plugs also cause higher voltage requirements causing the ignition module and coil to produce higher and higher voltages to overcome the resistance. The resulting higher voltage breaks down the spark pl8ug wire’s insulation creating an easier path to ground. This causes the ignition module and coil to produce even more voltage, creating even higher current temperatures within them. Remember higher resistance correlates to higher current temperatures and that electricity always tries to find the easiest path to ground. This higher than normal resistance weakens transistor and electrical insulation within module, coils and computers resulting in intermittent and premature failure. As a result you may experience a variety of derivability problems. These problems are sometime hard to diagnose due to the intermittent nature of electrical components as a result of temperature, heat and moisture; resulting in expensive diagnostic time. If you have already experienced an ignition module or computer failure after 60,000 miles and haven’t replaced your spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor you most likely will experience the same problem again.
Most ignition modules range in price for $200.00 to $450.00 plus labor! The same is also true for vehicle computers.
Why you should perform a fuel injection service
Since your car was new, dirt, varnishes, and carbon deposits have been forming in your vehicle’s fuel system on the intake valves and in the combustion areas. These buildups can rob your car of performance. Some of the symptoms related to carbon buildup are engine pinging, hesitation, poor acceleration, lack of power, repeated stalling when cold, poor performance when cold, rough idle , and poor fuel economy. These buildups are left untreated may lead to costly engine repairs. The MotorVac Carbon Cleaning System is a revolutionary new process that will clean your vehicle’s fuel system, including injectors, and remove harmful carbon deposits. This system utilizes a unique cleaning solution, which will not damage your vehicle’s sophisticated engine components.
After MotorVac Carbon Cleaning System cleans your engine, you will notice improved performance, acceleration and increased fuel economy.
What is a cooling system service?
Whenever a fluid is in contact with metal electrochemical degradation takes place which results in a higher than normal level of acid present in any given fluid. This higher acid level, if left unchanged, can result in very costly repairs. As a result, it is recommended to flush your cooling system, and most importantly PH balance your antifreeze at least once every 2 years or 30,000 miles. This will help reduce the acid level and extend the life of your radiator, heater core, water pump, head gaskets, freeze plugs, radiator and heater hoses.
Why is it important to have your cooling system flushed by a knowledgeable repair shop with all the right equipment? Why you can’t do it yourself? You have probably heard many times that your cooling system should be -35 degrees, and you wonder why, when it never gets that cold. The reason is: water is the best conductor of heat because the molecules are spaced far apart and heat can move into the water very easily. The problem with water is its corrosive when in contact with metal and can freeze. Ethylene glycol silicone based antifreeze is added to the water; to protect the metal, keep the water from freezing, and lubricate the only moving parts in the cooling system such as the water pump and thermostat. If you use 100% antifreeze, the engine may overheat in hot weather with or without your air conditioning on. The reason is antifreeze molecules are packed tightly together and are unable to remove the heat from the engine as efficiently as water. The condenser for your car’s air conditioning operates much hotter than the radiator; that’s why it is placed in front of the radiator. The radiator dissipates the heat from your air conditioning condenser and this makes the coolant even hotter! With today’s new computer controlled engines the coolant temperature, is most important. The temperature sensor tells the computer, along with other sensors, how to adjust the fuel mixture and ignition timing. This may affect engine performance and efficiency. For the best heat removal and metal protection 50% water and 50% antifreeze is desired. The proper mix is determined by checking the coolant level; -35 degrees equals 50/50. The problem comes when the PH of water is 7.0 to 7.2 and antifreeze PH is 10.5 right out of the gallon. A 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze would have a PH factor of 8.75. This level is too acidic for today’s cooling systems. The recommended PH level should be between 9.8 and 10.5; this level greatly reduces the acid content that together with electrochemical reaction of dissimilar materials causes electrochemical degradation.
To correct the above condition, you need to power flush your cooling system by continuously forcing the coolant under pressure through the engine, radiator, and heater core in both directions at different times. While the coolant is being forced through the system it is also going through a 25 and 5-micron filters to remove all contaminates from the coolant. Once this is done, antifreeze or water is added to the system while circulating to bring it to the desired -35 degrees throughout the system evenly. We then add a PH concentrate while still circulating the coolant to evenly reach a PH level of 10.5 throughout the system. We stop at 10.5 PH because over time, as the hot coolant follows through the system, it will slowly become more acidic as described above. The coolant should stay within the safe range of 9.8 to 10.5 PH level about 2 years or 30,000 miles. We also pressure test the system for leaks, clean the recovery bottle and test the radiator cap to see if it holds the proper pressure.
Why you should perform an air conditioning service
Your air conditioning should be checked for proper operation and Freon charge at least once a year. Freon is very hard to contain in an automotive system. The reason is your air conditioning compressor operates at all different speeds due to engine RPM. The rest of the system is comprised of many dissimilar materials that expand and contract at different rates and along with the movement of the engine; this allows a minute amount of Freon to escape. This is normal and that’s why the system should be checked for low charge. You’re probably asking yourself does that meant I have a leak; probably not, at least not significantly. Checking the amount of Freon in the system is very important because the Freon in the A/C system carries the refrigerant oil through the system to lubricate moving parts and seals. Insufficient Freon can damage the compressor, expansion valve and seals resulting in very costly repairs. You might also say I don’t use my air conditioning in the winter, but you do! Every time the defroster is turned on your air conditioning compressor engages to dry the air before directing it to the windshield. Waiting till your air conditioning is needed during warm weather to determine that the system is low on Freon may be too late to avoid unnecessary damage.
We at Lenexa Automotive are certified by ASE and MACS in the proper handling and have the equipment to handle both R12 and the new R134A refrigerant along with some of the most sophisticated leak detection equipment now available. For $59.95 we will service your air conditioning and perform the following procedures: clean condenser fins as required, inspect and adjust A/C compressor drive belt, performance test A/C for proper operation, inspect all visible A/C components for leaks using the most sophisticated leak detection equipment available and test antifreeze for proper mix. Due to the constantly changing price of R12 and R134A upwards, the refrigerant needed to fully charge the A/C system would be in addition to the above service, so don’t delay. This service will help you to enjoy the same level of reliability you have come to know and depend on. If you have any questions regarding the recommended service feel free to call and talk to Fred or me, and we will be more than happy to discuss them. So call today and make an appointment.
Why you should service your brake fluid
There is an increasing awareness of the dangers of water and corrosion producing contaminates. Brake fluid contaminated by moisture dangerously lowers the boiling point of the fluid to the point that, even under ordinary condition, your brakes could get hot enough to cause the brake fluid to boil causing vapor to form in the brake system. The vapor is compressible, causing a low or no brake pedal. Moisture gets into the fluid because conventional brake fluid is hygrosconic (it has a magnetic attraction for moisture, which it absorbs from the atmosphere). In the vehicle, moisture is absorbed through the brake master cylinder reservoir and permeable brake hoses. As a result the moisture along with the steel line, rubber hoses, cast iron, aluminum and brake fluid temperature that can reach 450 to 500 degrees; cause electrochemical reaction that makes the brake fluid so acidic that it can result in early failure of brake components. Brake fluid contamination has become so much a concern of some major car manufacturers that they have added it to their required maintenance. Failure to change your vehicle brake fluid can result in very costly repairs, if you have ABS type brakes, component failure can run into the thousands! So don’t delay in having our ASE certified technicians perform this service for you.
Why get an electrical system analysis?
Your electrical system is comprised of two major systems; a charging system and a starting system. A battery that goes bad can be the result of over charging, electrical drain as a result of a short or under charging as a result of a bad drive belt, voltage regulator or alternator.
The charging system keeps the battery from going dead as the demand for more voltage is required as a result of accessory load. The charging system is comprised of an alternator, voltage regulator and the belt that drives the alternator. The voltage regulator can be either internal or external. Internalized regulators are usually located inside the alternator but there are those that are internalized inside the computer! The steady supply of voltage is crucial to the operation of today’s vehicles due to the increased uses of highly sophisticated electronic. The lack of a steady supply of voltage can result in computer malfunctions (Engine stalling or poor performance, check engine light to come on, computerized climate control, ride control and ABS brake control to malfunction, etc.) due to the lack of or fluctuation in voltage. A charging system that over charges the battery and vehicles electrical system can cause serious damage to highly sensitive electronics resulting in hundreds even thousands of dollars in damage! The right equipment and the operator are crucial to arrive at an accurate diagnosis that can save you money! The improper use of equipment, or the wrong equipment, can result in possible damage to other sensitive electronics.
Your starting system is comprised of a starter motor, starter solenoid, starter relay, neutral safety switch and ignition switch. Starter solenoids and relays can either be mounted on, or made as part of the starter and some can even be mounted in remote locations. A vehicle that doesn’t crank may or may not totally be caused by the starter. Your starting system is less complex but just as important. The battery must have enough capacity to turn the starter and overcome the resistance in the engine. That’s why checking the charging system is necessary. Diagnosing the starter system requires several different tests. A starter draw test will determine if the starter is drawing more amperage than is needed to turn the engine over and a circuit test will determined if all other components are working properly and that voltage is present when and where it is needed.
An electrical analysis can save you money and future headaches by diagnosing the problem right the first time!
Why you should flush out your transmission fluid
Nearly nine out of ten transmission failures are due to overheating and fluid contamination, according to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association. Just like the oil in your car engine, automatic transmission fluid (ATF) suffers from heat, friction and electrochemical degradation. Once this process starts, your transmission’s vital parts begin to clog with sludge and varnish deposits.
Unlike your car’s engine where all the oil can be drained out, most of the transmission fluid doesn’t drain into the transmission pan. Instead it stays in the torque converter, valve body and transmission cooler lines making a complete fluid drain impossible. In fact, the typical transmission service only replaces 25% of the contaminated fluid, leaving behind 75% contaminated fluid to mix with the new ATF.
According to automatic transmission fluid manufacturers, the addition of new fluid to contaminated fluid can actually cause sludge and varnish deposits to clog filters and restrict the flow of transmission fluid. This can result in a serious malfunction, or even complete failure of an automatic transmission.
Now there is an option. Lenexa Automotive has purchased a transmission fluid flush machine to provide you with the latest service procedure that safely removes varnish and sludge deposits and cleans all internal transmission components, including the transmission cooler, valve body and torque converter. This service is also the best way to remove wear metals that are slowly grinding away on your transmission’s internal components along with most of the old, contaminated ATF. Your car’s transmission is thoroughly cleaned and protected with fresh ATF and conditioners that revitalize the seals and O-rings in the transmission.
If your cars transmission is showing any signs of contaminated transmission fluid, slippage, rough or hard shifting, this service is the first thing you should try before it becomes necessary to perform major repair work or even the need for a transmission.
Why you should flush out your steering fluid
Most people at one time or another has encountered a power steering problem with a power steering pump, hoses, gearbox or rack & pinion. Failures could be anything from noise, leaks or stiffness when first starting the car. Power steering fluid is designed for power steering systems; different manufacturers sometimes require different fluids. Under NO condition is ATF to be used in power steering systems. The pressure in a power steering system on hard turns is much higher than that in an automatic transmission under load. Power steering fluid is clear in color. Power steering fluid turns dark because of heat created by the high pressure when held in hard turns. The ATF will become very hot under load and start to breakdown causing electrochemical degradation, this also happens with power steering fluid but not as fast as with ATF. Once this process starts your power steering pump and rack & pinion begin to clog with sludge and varnish deposits. The sludge and varnish can cause stiffness, leaks or complete system failures.
Now there is an option. Lenexa Automotive has purchased a power steering fluid flush machine to provide you with the latest service procedure that safely removes varnish and sludge deposits and cleans all internal power steering components, including the power steering hoses, power steering pump, rack & pinion and or gear box. This service is also the best way to remove wear metals that is slowly grinding away on your power steering internal components. Your car’s power steering is thoroughly cleaned and protected with fresh power steering fluid and conditioners that revitalize the seals and O-rings in your power steering system.
If your cars power steering system is showing any signs of contaminated power steering fluid, noise, stiffness, rough or hard turning, this service is the first thing you should try before it becomes necessary to perform major repair work or even the need for replacement of very expensive power steering components.
Why is wheel alignment important?
Wheel alignments are the specific adjustments made to your vehicle’s suspension to optimize ride, handling and steering characteristics. Each Manufacturer specifics precise settings to achieve the maximum performance from their vehicle.
Maintaining the factory-specified suspension setting will make your car safer and easier to drive. Steering pull, unsteady or loose steering, hard steering can be caused by misalignment conditions. A properly aligned vehicle can save you money! Misalignment conditions can cause greatly accelerated tire wear, poor fuel economy and excessive wear on other suspension parts.
Whenever you impact a curb or pot hole hard, the alignment should be checked before unusual tire wear is detected, (edge wear, diagonal wear, cupping wear) which may result in premature tire replacement! Steering or handling problems such as (loose steering, steering wheel off center, steering change direction after hitting bumps) should have the alignment checked as a part of the diagnostic procedure. The installation of new tires or the replacement of worn suspension parts should always be accompanied by a wheel alignment to help protect your tire investment. Checking the wheel alignment as a part of routine annual maintenance can significantly increase suspension parts and tire life, saving you money!